Adventures in Guinea as a Peace Corps Volunteer

Sunday, November 05, 2006

Write me a letter...please!

As most of you know the holiday season is approaching and many of my Peace Corps friends are going back to the States. However, I will be spending the holidays in Guinea. If you have a chance and would like to send me a letter my friend Kathryn Graves is willing to carry letters back for people BUT only letters. Please send me a quick email if you would like the address. I don't want to post her address for the whole world (not that I think that many people read my blog).

Saturday, November 04, 2006

Andrea is Muslim??!!!!!

People have anticipated evening 29 of Ramadan for endless days, hours and minutes. On the 29th night if the moon is visible the next day is the celebration of Ramadan. Luck was not on the side of Leloumians as the huge storm rollled in mid-afternoon day 29 and sat on the mountains and destroyed any chance of seeing the moon.

When the celebration finally came (day 31) moon or no moon the grand fast was broken. My friends invited me to the special place where everyone prays during the fetes (celebrations). The whole village put on their new clothes they had specially made or at least their cleanest clothes and with prayer mat in hand walked to the sacred place of prayer facing the surrounding mountains. True to the culture everything happened quite slowly. The women’s place slowly filled up as did the mens. We waited for almost an hour until the government official came with his family. Twenty minutes later he returned again but in a SUV with a running siren which they use as the town ambulance. This time he brought only men with him (the stragglers or maybe other goverment officials). Instead of the blaring microphone (that regularly echoes through my house) alerting people that it was time to pray, a drum was played. Within minutes people were standing and the prayer started.

Since I was there I figured I would pray as my friends were doing. I stood bent slightly at the waist chanted “Allah Wak Bah” and fell to my knees on the prayer mat touching my forehead to the ground. Technically, everyone was praying and would not know if I was praying “Christian-style or Muslim-style”. However, since the whole village was there someone must have spotted me. Almost 2 weeks later, people are still asking me if I am Muslim. It is with great pleasure that I tell them that I BELIEVE there is only one God and I was praying to her. I use the word God because my French is not strong enough to explain my belief in the the higher power. After the 5 minutes it takes to pray, I went to greet all the old women and any friends I saw in the crowd of nearly 3,000 people. Finally, back to the house to change out of my traditional Africian outfit (in which I look very silly complete with headwrap) and to the kitchen. I prepared bananna bread in a a dutch oven on my gas stovetop for my contribution to the meal. It was the 1st time any of my friends had ever tasted bananna bread. It received rave reviews. Sucessful cultural exchange...prayers for food!

The Reunion (Meeting in French) That Never Ended

I was invited to a meeting in a village about 15k away. Feeling very unproductive I greatefully accepted something to pass another day of Ramadan. Mistake #1. I left my house at 8:30AM for a 10AM meeting. I thought the bike ride was about 1 ½ hours. I later remembered that I had only done the ride the other way which is up the huge mountain about 15k. About ½ way there I realized I was early even if the meeting would start on American time (very doubtful). I decided to take a detour to vist this beautiful side of the mountain. However, it got too step to ride anymore so I locked my bike to a tree and hiked down the side of the moutnain. After telling myself over 5 times that I really needed to turn around, I finally did. I retrieved my bike and continued on the main road riding my breaks down the mountain until my hands were sore and breaks practically rubbed away. I was not sure of the exact location but as I was stopping to ask someone in my stellar Pular where the meeting was the man that invited me to the meeting sped by on a moto. I quickly hoppped back on my bike but was quickly dusted by the moto. I rode until I saw a group of men outside the school perched in the trees chopping them down in order to finish their fence.

I arrived at 11AM with no hopes of the commencement of the meeting in sight. The guy that sped by on the moto had now disappeared and would come back in an hour to start the meeting. After hanging out a bit he finally reappeared and his first words to me where...Did you fall off your bike?” Apparently he did see me as he wizzed by. I look a bit dirty even though I had slid my pants off and wrapped myself up in an ankle length skirt appropriate for the meeting BUT had no new scrapes, bruises or black-eyes to speak of.

When the meeting finally started the school room was packed with about 100 women, men and children. The Director of the Primary School was assigned to translate from Pular to French for me. He worked so dilligently for about 4 hours when he realized I had grown tired of the long speeches with little new content. The group spent over 1 hour talking about increasing the union membership dues but still had not decided what to do with the last years dues. Now you understand why I found much more entertainment in watching the people spit on the floor of the classroom since it was Ramadan they were not allowed to eat or drink anything which includes swallowing their spit. I also spent some time examining my translator’s outfit. As a well respected memeber of the community he was wearing appropriate clothing however funny we find it. As is the fashion he had on a men’s style American green pair of pajamas accentuated by pink trimming on the sleves and breast pocket. This outfit was accessorized with a black and red 2 tone “50 cent” hat supporting the american rapper. The most disturbing scene however was the sick baby chocking on her own mucus while the mother blew on her face to make her stop crying. When this failed she stuck her breast in its mouth to feed her. As you can imagine the baby promptly threw-up the milk and the women was asked to leave for causing such a disturbance. An hour later I could not tell if I was having nightmares about this chocking or I was still hearing it. When we finally broke the meeting for 2PM prayer, I realized that woman was standing outside the room the whole time.

The prayer time came as a huge relief. I snuck around the corner to drink the last of my litter of water. Unfortunately, I had not planned very well and did not bring food or a sufficient amount of water to what I thought might be a 4 hour trip turned into an 11 hour voyage. I watched as the men lined up for prayer and about 70 women fell in behind them wearing headwraps ranging from traditional fabric to tye dye material to a plaid wool blanket. Shortly after prayer, a verbal fight broke out about the NGO taking out the wire fencing (which is really expensive here) that they put in a year ago to a very unproductive group of farmers. At this moment, I decided to slip out as quickly as posssible. To my dismay, I heard my name along with a string of Pular phrases. I was being applauded for not participating in a the argument and remaining in my seat. About 15 minuts later it had calmed down and I was able to slide out with a few others. It helped that my translator (new friend) got so frustrated he left. As I was leaving, the guy in charged (who invited me) takes me to the side tells me in a whisper that he is leaving the country unbeknownst to anyone else and can I please help this group!

I will not bore you with the horrible details of my painful ride up the moutnain while accidently nearly participating in Ramadan without food or water Neeedless to say, I did a lot of pushing the bike and laying flat on my back on the side of the road talking small breaks. I rode into Lelouma stopping at the first small shop that sells cookie type crackers a few kilometers out. I was riding slowly and stuffing packets of cookies into my face just as the sun was setting. Another good day!